Agra

The journey to Agra and the Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal today (Thursday 20th). 

We drove from New Delhi to Agra this morning. Getting out of New Delhi took a long time with the traffic especially all the little green and yellow tuk tuks. We stopped at a cafe for tea where the cashier tired to shortchange me by 500 rupees, only a fiver but not nice. We pass field of crops and  a surprising number of people in them working alone or in pairs. In between there are what look like hayricks and tall chimneys with an occasional one spouting smoke. There were also rows of what look like bricks separating fields and I really don't know why they or the chimneys are there. My driver's English was not good enough to explain. the land is very flat and an occasional stip of land is flooded suggesting rice growing.

As we approached closer to Agra I began to see more and varied animals including goats and scrawny cows. And then brown tourist signs for the Taj Mahal - how exciting!

Agra and the Taj Mahal

The hotel is exquisite in Agra and very secure. My room is a suite with living room, bathroom, dressing room as well as bedroom. Robes and slippers are provided, with rose petals on the towels, an assortment of teas and coffees and I have my own butler! Another chap came later to prepare the room for sleep, leaving post-digestive potions to help me have a restful sleep. Lunch was good but they insisted I wear a bib! But this is just a lovely place and wish I was staying here longer. But it is in stark contrast to life in the city beyond the security gates. People are hawking, cows roam freely and now monkeys join the dogs on the streets. Even pigs roam about! It is raw, dusty and colourful as the rickshaws weave their way about. Cycles are ridden with loads the size of an elephant and carts are pulled by donkeys, horses, camels and even people.

My guide today is Sanjay, an affable man studying for his PhD and with a young family. He is studying history and seemed especially knowledgeable on the Moghuls and Persians who had lived in the 17th century and built the fort and taj mahal at Agra. He can tell a good story and captivates with his passion for the Taj Mahal and all it represents. It was all about love at the Taj and power at the Fort. So we started with love and despite the crowds of people nothing could spoil that first sighting of the building through the archway of the surrounding sandstone walls and buildings. It is epic and beautiful, delightful and exquisite and a true wonder to behold. 

At a distance, this Crown Palace is grand and bold and stylish in its octagonal harmony and symmetry. Sanjay was able to expand on its construction and foundations in wells, designed to withstand all weathers. Closer to it, it is detailed, intricate and embellished with beautiful carvings, inlaid jewels and precious gemstones, patterned in script and trellis work of infinite complexity. there is powerful imagery and it is potent with symbolism beyond my imaginings. No wonder everyone says it is better than you imagine! And built by hand by Persian craftsmen

It was wonderful and quite unexpected that we could also go inside where the inner dome (it is a double dome) echoes as we all cry Mumtaj in honour of the lady so loved that this building was constructed over 22 years. Yes, she was the third wife, a mother of 14 children but of whom only 7 reached adulthood and Sanjay relished recounting to me with passion and sheer joy the details of this story. When we say Wow on looking at the building we're right he says for it is a story of  wine, opium and women.

I was also guided to good photo spots and he took photos of me and made the experience a delight. We reluctantly left the Taj to head next to the Fort but I was able to see the inlaid stones starting to sparkle as the light began to fade. OK, I was not able to see the mysticism one imagines  you would experience at sunrise but it was magical and I shall save that pleasure for my return.

Agra Fort was the home for Mumtaj before her demise and the living quarters were again made of the lovely creamy white marble of the Taj Mahal. the designs and patterns and marble carvings were repeated here but set within the strong power base of the Fort in its red sandstone.

Sanjay also took me to some local crafts in rugs, gemstones and marble. The rugs were exquisite in wool, pashmina and silk and I could watch one being constructed and hear the men singing the colours to each other. So it was very difficult to resist not having one ...

Next were the gemstones with a seikh to show me such as rubies and lapis lazuli pieces while sitar music played. I did try hard but ... and they did give me a sitar playing lesson

Finally fully hardened to resist we went to the marbles.This would be easy to say no wouldn't it? Well those cute little elephants in jasper and malachite were just too lovely and it is coming up to Christmas after all ...

I got back to my hotel laden with the love of India in my gifts. I imagine the craft places will be pleased with him for taking me there if I'm being cynical but so what? I have gifts of lovely things to treasure and I hope to have contributed to a better part of the Indian economy run by and for these people. So I will not seek to uncover any deceit of it exists. But I shall try to be stronger tomorrow ...

And today was one for firsts, in:

first sight of pigs roaming free in a street alongside dogs and monkeys and cows

first sight of the Taj Mahal for real

first time I've been asked if I'm Russian!